Pernambuco’s backlands establish themselves as a wine producing hub

Research recommends the best grape varieties for producing the drink in the region

16.09.2024 | 18:00 (UTC -3)
Clarice Monteiro Rocha
Photo: Edmea Ubirajara
 Photo: Edmea Ubirajara

A new frontier for fine wines is emerging in the Agreste region of Pernambuco, driven by pioneering research conducted by Embrapa Semiárido (PE), in partnership with the Federal University of Agreste Pernambucano (Ufape) and the Agronomic Institute of Pernambuco (IPA). Six grape varieties were recommended specifically for this region, with data proving the viability of local production and analyses attesting to the quality of the wines produced.

The study involved the cultivation and evaluation of ten European grape varieties in five production cycles in the IPA experimental field, in the municipality of Brejão (PE). The objective was to understand the agronomic behavior, the adaptation of the varieties, the quality of the grapes, the oenological potential and the viability of wine processing in non-traditional regions.

For the production of white wines, the recommended cultivars were Sauvignon Blanc, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains (known as Moscato Branco) and Viognier. For red wines, the most recommended varieties were Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. According to Embrapa researcher Patrícia Coelho de Souza Leão, coordinator of the project, these cultivars stood out for their good agronomic performance, productivity and oenological potential. “Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and Malbec were the most notable, with an average productivity of 10 tons per hectare, similar to that recorded in the São Francisco Valley region (an already consolidated production hub), and are recommended for cultivation in the Agreste region,” she states.

In addition, Chardonnay was evaluated for white wines, and Pinot Noir and Petit Verdot for red wines. “However, these varieties did not show good adaptation, presenting weak vegetative development, low vigor and reduced productivity”, points out the researcher.

Quality of wines was evaluated

The project also included an assessment of the quality of the wines produced from the grapes grown. The winemaking process was carried out at the Enology Laboratory of Embrapa Semiárido, using traditional methods on an experimental scale. The resulting wines met the requirements of Brazilian legislation for dry fine wines and excelled in sensory analyses conducted by the team at the Wine School of the Federal Institute of Education, Science and Technology of Sertão Pernambucano (IF Sertão-PE). These analyses confirmed the potential of wines from the Agreste region of Pernambuco.

The research work has boosted the cultivation of wine grapes and the production of high-quality wines in the Agreste region, attracting entrepreneurs interested in the potential of wine tourism as a new business opportunity. “The results are a stimulus for the production of wine grapes in the region. In addition to attracting tourism, winemaking diversifies agricultural activities, especially for small and medium-sized rural entrepreneurs, and offers consumers wines of a different quality compared to those produced in the Semiarid region,” Souza Leão highlights. 

Performance of grapes in the Pernambuco Agreste region

Muscat Blanc; photo: Mairon Moura da Silva
Muscat Blanc; photo: Mairon Moura da Silva

Muscat Blanc with Small Grains – had a production cycle of 129 days and an average productivity of 6 tons per hectare, reaching 8 tons under ideal conditions. Each plant produced an average of 12 bunches, with a mass of around 148 grams, and a pulp yield of 74,39%. The dry white wine of this variety stood out for its greenish color with golden reflections, complex aromas of tropical fruits, citrus and floral notes, and a light body with a good balance between alcohol and acidity.

Sauvignon blanc; photo: Mairon Moura da Silva
Sauvignon blanc; photo: Mairon Moura da Silva

Sauvignon Blanc – The Sauvignon Blanc phenological cycle lasted an average of 135 days. Average productivity was 11 tons per hectare, with a maximum of 16 tons. Each plant produced around 23 bunches, with an average mass of 109 grams and a pulp yield of 70,37%. The wine from this variety was clear and bright, with aromas of white fruits, tropical fruits and citrus notes. In the mouth, it shows balance, medium body and good persistence.

Viognier – the production cycle varied from 132 to 138 days. The average productivity was 5 tons per hectare, and could reach six tons. Each plant produced an average of 12 bunches, with a mass of 94 grams. The pulp yield was 66,56%. The dry Viognier wine had a pale yellow color, a complex aroma with notes of honey, vanilla, citrus and tropical fruits, and a balanced flavor with good persistence.

Syrah; photo: Mairon Moura da Silva
Syrah; photo: Mairon Moura da Silva

Syrah – for the variety, the phenological cycle was 144 days, with a sprouting rate of 60,37% and productivity of 10 tons per hectare, which could reach 14 tons. The bunches had an average mass of 110 grams. The pulp yield was 61,73%. The young dry red wine had a ruby ​​color, aromatic notes of red fruits and spices, medium body and flavor persistence.

Cabernet Sauvignon – had a cycle of 149 days, reaching 160 days. Productivity was 4 tons per hectare, with a maximum of 5 tons. Each plant produced about ten bunches weighing 105 grams. The average pulp yield was 59,83%. The young dry red wine of this cultivar had a ruby ​​color with brownish reflections, aromas of green pepper, spices, stewed red fruits, black fruits and mint. In the mouth, it is balanced, with a medium body and fruity flavor, with medium gustatory persistence.

Malbec after color change; photo: Mairon Moura da Silva
Malbec after color change; photo: Mairon Moura da Silva

Malbec – the phenological cycle was 146 days, with an average sprouting rate of 54,65%, achieving a productivity of 10 tons per hectare, which could reach 18 tons. The bunches had an average mass of 140 grams. The young dry red wine of the Malbec variety had a ruby ​​color with violet reflections, good brightness and clarity, aromas of red and black fruits, floral notes and a fruity flavor with a light body.

Union between research and entrepreneurship

The work conducted by Embrapa Semiárido provided the basis for the rise of a new wine region in the Agreste region of Pernambuco, especially in Garanhuns, by validating the cultivation of grapes in the area of ​​local producers. The initiative combined scientific research and entrepreneurship, revealing the potential of high-altitude viticulture in the region.

Businessman and doctor Michel Moreira Leite was the first to bet on this potential. Owner of the Vale das Colinas winery, he produces around six thousand bottles of wine annually, which have already won national awards, becoming an example of success and innovation in Agreste.

Leite’s journey began in 2013, when he and his wife purchased a 37-hectare plot of land in rural Garanhuns and decided to turn the area into a wine grape plantation. “We didn’t know where to start, so we went to Embrapa to get information about the technical feasibility of the project,” he recalls.

At the Research Center, the couple discovered that experiments were already being conducted with the cultivation of wine grapes in Agreste. For them, the Company was crucial in the construction of the pilot project in Garanhuns. The businessman joined forces with the research institution through a technical cooperation agreement, making his vineyard available for new studies.

This collaboration resulted in the creation of Vale das Colinas in 2018. Initially, the Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Muscat Petit Grain varieties were planted on 3,5 hectares. The first harvest, in 2020, marked the beginning of wine tourism activities. Today, the cultivated area has been expanded to 14 hectares, with new varieties such as Syrah, Chenin Blanc and Marselan.

With a focus on artisanal production and sustainability, Vale das Colinas positions itself as a boutique winery, prioritizing manual harvesting and promoting visits and events. “We do not want to mechanize, because job creation is a commitment of ours,” says Leite.

The winery currently offers five labels, including three reds — Cabana do Vale Reserva (Cabernet Sauvignon), Dona Elisa (Malbec) and Cabana do Vale (Cabernet Sauvignon) — and two whites — Dona Cecília (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains) and Ciranda (Sauvignon Blanc). The first harvests were vinified with support from Embrapa and the Instituto Federal do Sertão, in Petrolina. Since the third harvest, the winemaking process has been carried out on the property itself, with the latest harvest resulting in 19.500 bottles.

Photo: Edmea Ubirajara
 Photo: Edmea Ubirajara

Now, Leite is looking to reduce costs and increase the business’ competitiveness. He believes that the project’s greatest contribution was its impact on the region’s human development. “Our winery has strengthened the hotel and gastronomy industry in Garanhuns, boosting local tourism,” he emphasizes.

The growth of winemaking in Agreste has attracted new entrepreneurs, such as Vinícola Mello, which began operations in 2021 with varieties such as Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Studies of 12 new varieties further expand the region's wine potential.

Patrícia Souza Leão highlights that the success of wine tourism in the Agreste and Semiarid regions of Pernambuco has attracted the attention of entrepreneurs from other municipalities in the Northeast. Projects are already underway to establish vineyards in Camocim de São Félix, Bonito, Gravatá and Flores, in Pernambuco; and in Bananeiras, Natuba and Souza, in Paraíba; in addition to São José do Mipibu, in Rio Grande do Norte.

“It is the research carried out by Embrapa and its partners that is strengthening Brazilian winemaking, generating new business opportunities and promoting economic development in the interior of the Northeast of the country”, concludes Souza Leão.

Climate conditions

Tropical winemaking in Brazil occurs mainly in two climatic conditions: highland tropical and subtropical regions, and semi-arid regions, such as the Submédio do Vale do São Francisco. In the latter, high temperatures allow up to two harvests per year, which represents a significant competitive advantage.

The Garanhuns Microregion stands out for being located in a highland climate, almost 900 meters above sea level, with an average annual temperature of 20,6ºC. The climatic characteristics configure a transition between those recorded in the wine regions of the Semiarid region and those of the South and Southeast, with the possibility of only one harvest per year.

Next Steps

The cultivation of vines for the production of fine wines in the Pernambuco Agreste region is undergoing improvements to establish a more efficient and competitive production system. This is the next step in the research, according to Patrícia Souza Leão. However, based on the work already carried out, recommendations have been drawn up to optimize cultivation in the region.

Patrícia emphasizes the importance of continuing the studies carried out by Embrapa in partnership with other institutions, such as Ufape and IPA. These studies address crucial aspects of the production system, including management techniques, evaluation of new cultivars and clones, reduction of the production cycle, pruning practices and definition of the ideal time for harvesting. The goal is to both increase production and ensure higher quality grapes for winemaking. 

“The quality of wine is directly related to the proper management of plants. Therefore, advancing studies is essential to improve the competitiveness of the production chain in the region. This will contribute to diversifying the local economy, generating new jobs and income,” he concludes.

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