Paraíba expands production of colored cotton

The crop of colored cotton that began to be harvested in the middle of last month in some regions of Paraíba should reach around 50 tons of lint, according to estimates by producers and technicians from the Paraibana Research, Rural Extension and Land Regularization Company (Empaer). ). This will represent a production at least three times greater than the previous harvest, according to data from the institution. 

Among the factors that led to this increase are the adherence of the company Santa Luzia Redes e Decoração to an international agreement so that its products are made from 100% sustainable cotton by 2025. Organic colored cotton is one of the main raw materials used by the company. Only the Santa Luzia group is contracting the production of around 60 hectares this harvest, with the expectation of reaching 100 hectares next year.

Santa Luzia Redes e Decoração, located in São Bento, in the hinterland of Paraíba, has been cultivating natural and certified organic colored cotton on 2006 hectares in a family farming system since 20, in municipalities surrounding the factory. The raw material feeds the factory that produces decorative textile items: hammocks, blankets, among others, to supply the national and international market.

With growing demand, the company decided to increase production by 300% to serve weavers in the domestic and foreign markets. “This production will not only be destined for Santa Luzia Redes e Decoração. Our interest in increasing production is to commercialize cotton plume and, in the future, cotton yarn because demand has grown and we saw an opportunity to offer other companies in the domestic and foreign markets that wish to use colored cotton in their production”, says the company's director, Armando Dantas.

 The production of organic cotton by the Santa Luzia group is concentrated in the municipalities of Brejo do Cruz, Belém do Brejo do Cruz, São Bento and São José do Brejo do Cruz, mostly cultivated by quilombola communities, in a family farming system, with a average productivity of 1.200 kilos of cotton per hectare. According to the businessman, around 180 people are involved in production.

Technologies to expand production

Two Embrapa Algodão technologies for family farming, still in the validation phase, were tested in the production areas of the Santa Luzia group, with encouraging results, enabling this increase in production. “Two machines to assist in organic agriculture, one for delinting seeds through buckling and another for planting these seeds, were tested in the area. The tests and validation of the machines were carried out on 900 kilos of seeds, with an excellent germination percentage. These validations had good results and will be interesting to improve the equipment and make it available for family farming”, says the head of Technology Transfer at Embrapa Algodão João Henrique Zonta.

Empaer extension agent in São Bento Geraldo Bonifácio coordinated the tests with the planter and was satisfied with the results. “The production was very good, those who planted with it were very satisfied and next year we will plant all areas with the equipment because it makes the farmers' work a lot easier. You can even plant other crops, such as corn, beans, etc.,” he reports.

Another initiative that has contributed to the increase in the production of organic feathers (white or colored) is the Algodão Paraíba project, coordinated by Empaer since 2015, in partnership with Embrapa Algodão, Norfil S/A Indústria Têxtil and Cooperativa de Produção Têxtil Afins of Cotton (Coopnatural).

Technicians from Embrapa Algodão and Empaer bring their knowledge to agricultural activity, teaching farmers to cultivate without pesticides and correctly manage soil and water, especially in the semi-arid region, where there are long periods of drought. “The company’s action in prioritizing cultivation in remote and highly socially vulnerable areas is commendable. This brings a significant benefit such as economic transformation for these families who previously planted only for subsistence and, today, already have new perspectives”, declares Nivaldo Moreno Magalhães, president of Empaer.

Furthermore, the Natural Cotton Color group expects to harvest a contracted area of ​​around 40 hectares, in the municipalities of Juarez Távora and Salgado de São Félix, and the Associação dos Produtores do Assentamento Queimadas, in the municipality of Remígio, expects to harvest around of five hectares.

Sustainable Cotton Challenge 2025

The International Sustainability Unit initiative led by Prince Charles in the United Kingdom aims to facilitate consensus on how to solve some of the key environmental and social challenges in cotton supply chains. The “2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge” emerged in 2017 as a proposal aligned with the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and the Paris Agreement. The pact brings together 39 transnational companies that have committed to developing products with 100% sustainable cotton.

Naturally colored cotton
Embrapa developed the first colored cotton cultivar 20 years ago, with the aim of offering alternative income for farmers in the Semiarid region, in addition to contributing to environmental preservation. Since then, six varieties have been launched, with shades ranging from green to light and reddish browns. The cultivar most adopted by producers is BRS Rubi, due to its darker tone, which is most demanded by the textile industry.