Cotton and plastic in the battle for more sustainable fashion

The production and consumption of clothing are at the heart of an environmental debate. While clothing has become cheaper in recent decades, driven by movements like "fast fashion," the industry has expanded the use of synthetic materials derived from petroleum in clothing production. Plastic fabrics, such as polyester, have gained shelf space due to their lower production costs. The consequences, however, extend beyond the wardrobe and the economy at first glance, as plastic pollution is a serious problem for the planet, with impacts on ecosystems, climate, and health. 

According to the UN, the world produces more than 400 million tons of plastic per year, and a third is used only once. Adding to this is a sensitive factor for the textile sector: microplastics have already been identified in water, air, and food, and synthetic clothing contributes to this situation by releasing plastic microfibers during use and washing, which can pass through treatment systems and reach lakes, rivers, and oceans. In other words, the problem is not limited to disposal; it accompanies the garment throughout its life cycle. 

Advocating for the use of natural fibers is a long-term strategy for the health of the planet. Among the advantages of using cotton is its composition. The fiber is made up of approximately 90% cellulose, a natural polymer present in the cell walls of plants, biodegradable due to its chemical constitution. This does not mean that a garment made with natural fibers will disappear quickly. Under environmental conditions, degradation usually occurs over time, influenced by various factors such as climate, humidity, temperature, soil composition, and the fabric's own construction. Even if the speed of this process varies, the difference between a fiber of plant origin and one of fossil origin is crucial in reducing persistent and cumulative environmental liabilities. 

The discussion, however, doesn't end with the fiber. In the composition of clothing, plastic labels and adhesives can increase the persistence of waste and, over time, fragment into smaller particles in the environment. While trims and metallic components don't generate microplastics, they can also hinder recycling and require removal before the fabric can be reused. This reinforces that the debate on sustainability in fashion shouldn't be limited to the type of fiber, but should also involve design choices, material standardization, and responsible disposal. Even so, using a biodegradable raw material, such as cotton, recognized for the comfort and breathability it offers in daily use, is a significant step towards a circular economy, especially when combined with greater durability, reuse, reverse logistics, and recycling. 

The life cycle approach to clothing is integrated into discussions surrounding International Zero Waste Day, celebrated on March 30th. This date was established by the UN General Assembly in conjunction with the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) and the United Nations Human Settlements Programme (UN-Habitat). The goal is to raise awareness about waste management, responsible consumption and production, encouraging an end-to-end perspective to reduce resource use and emissions at all stages of a product. 

Brazilian cotton has the concrete potential to contribute to this movement, both in terms of scale and sustainability. According to the National Supply Company (Conab), cotton lint production in the 2025/26 harvest is estimated at 3,8 million tons. Brazil remains the world leader in cotton lint exports in the 2024/2025 cycle and maintains a prominent position for this season. According to industry data, more than 90% of national production is cultivated under rainfed conditions, meaning it depends on rainwater, while irrigation is adopted in some regions. This model contributes to the efficient use of water resources in fiber production in the country. 

The sustainability of cotton is not measured solely by the fiber itself, but also by how it is produced and by measuring its impacts. In November 2024, Brazilian cotton farmers measured, for the first time, the carbon footprint of cotton using primary field data through the Footprint PRO Carbon calculator, developed for the Brazilian agricultural system in technical cooperation between Bayer and Embrapa. With primary data from producers, the carbon footprint of cotton was 811 kg CO2e/t, with a potential reduction of over 30%. In addition to creating a national benchmark for the crop, the measurement conducted using the PRO Carbon platform indicates where emissions are occurring and guides management adjustments to reduce them, respecting regional particularities and supporting more efficient decisions throughout the supply chain. 

To expand the use of cotton in the textile industry and the market, this theme also connects with initiatives that bring the field closer to the consumer. The "Sou de Algodão" (I'm Cotton) movement of the Brazilian Cotton Producers Association (Abrapa) promotes conscious consumption and values ​​Brazilian raw materials by bringing together different links in the textile chain and encouraging garments with at least 70% natural fiber in their composition. The initiative operates with socio-environmental criteria and transparency in the garment's journey to value responsible production. 

The connection between producers and consumers is part of the response the sector can offer to the global plastic crisis. The discussion about natural versus synthetic fibers is not about simplifying a complex problem, but about how to respond to a real crisis with responsible choices. If the planet seeks solutions for pollution and excess waste, it makes sense for fashion to accelerate the transition to renewable, biodegradable, and responsibly produced fibers. Brazilian cotton, connected to pioneering initiatives and efforts in climate measurement in the field, has a concrete role to play in this agenda.

*Per Fernando Prudente, executive director of Cotton at Bayer